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| Wow, this bike cover is extremely durable. I ride my 1999 SE Goldwing everyday to work. This cover takes alot of abuse from the weather in Florida. I am extemely pleased with this product. The wear and tear is very minimum. I still rate this product a 5 compared to the other bike covers I have used... |
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Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers. 1. Disconnected the battery again 2. Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack 3. Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit. 4. Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas. 5. While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape. 6. Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen. 7. Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then with a ¼” bit per instructions. Approximated the angles as suggested but am su |
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Nice look. A bit high with the risers but will be easier to clean Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1.Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2.Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3.Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4.Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5.Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6.Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7.Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8.Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9.Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10.Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11.Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12.Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13.Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers. 1.Disconnected the battery again 2.Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack 3.Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit. 4.Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas. 5.While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape. 6.Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen. 7.Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then wi |
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Beutiful piece. Perfect color match (of course) Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers - I'll have more details on my review of the Kuty Rack and Risers Hope this is helpful. Remember to wait for a rainy day and take your time. Ride safe. |
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Works as advertised Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1.Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2.Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3.Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4.Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5.Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6.Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7.Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8.Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9.Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10.Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11.Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12.Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13.Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers - I'll have more details on my review of the Kuty Rack and Risers Hope this is helpful. Remember to wait for a rainy day and take your time. Ride safe. |
| Great extra for GW looks good! agree with others! be careful when unpacking, use a blade and take your time, no problem with using the double sided tape again just take your time & use rubber bands over mirrors overnight! worked a treat. |
| Outstanding quality. Heavy duty and solid. The only problem I've experienced is the very snug fit between the mount and the swing arm. Had to use grease and then press it on with the button head screw. A little difficult to adjust after that. Otherwise, very happy with the pegs. Lots of adjust-ability. |
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awesome fit and easy to install. Nice chrome add on. the handle brake light Reflects it nice. Best of all no bending it to make it fit. |
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Bought this battery in Feb. 08. and 58,000 miles ago. I have heated clothing/grips and lots of accessories. Fit was excellent, came almost fully charged(enough to easily start bike) and is a great performer, even though I left the Acc on twice and ran the battery down flat, both times. Bike starts as soon as I touch the starter button. I would highly recommend this battery, without hesitation! Dusty |
| Had this done same time as new springs put in by my mechanic, who couldn't believe how good and complete a kit it was, had everything needed to complete the job and he stated that here in Aus you just cant buy such a complete set as this one. |
| Excellent cover. Also the service at Wingstuff.com is exceptional. Ordered on Tuesday... delivered on Thursday. One suggestion... you can spray the cover on the outside with a waterproofing spray and it works like a charm. Lightweight and water REPELLANT. |
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Ooop! Here it is again. A well made product. I am 5'7" and wear size 9 boots/shoes. This board suits me well. Took a while getting used to shifting up and down. To ac ess my Kuryakyn kickstand I have to fold the floorboard up. To put my both feet flat down have to fold uo both floorboards up. For people with larger size feet, I suggest you buy the Kuryakyn heel shfter extender. |