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NJ Bob
Forked River, NJ, US, 08731
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Alias:
NJ Bob
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Member Since:
09.20.2010
Bike 1:
Silver 2005 Honda VTX1300
Bike 2:
Titanium 2008 Honda Goldwing GL1800
Bike 3:
Flat Black 2011 Harley Davidson Sportster Iron 883
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Bridgestone Tire COMBO for GL1800 G704/G709
ITEM CODE: WSBRCOMBO, SKU: WSBRCOMBO
05.02.2014
5 Star Tire Combo
| Unbeatable price for a great product. Free delivery coast to coast in two days as well - Wingstuff is the only place I shop these days. Had the tires installed today. I forgot what it feels like to ride a new bilke. Given break in periods, i was not aggressive on the trip home but cornering was akin to moving a feather. I got nearly 16k out of the dunlops, we"ll see how far these go. Side note : I ordered the DynaBeads too and fior some reason they took a week to arrive. Shop would not put them in because they said the beads make a big mess - no biggie as they cost next to nothing. |
Deluxe Luggage Rack Bag w/Rain Cover
ITEM CODE: WSRACKBAG, SKU: WSRACKBAG
07.21.2012
Inexpensive / well made
| Nice bag for the money. Much bigger than I was expecting which is a good thing as my wife like to take everything with her when we travel. |
Oil Filter Wrench
ITEM CODE: BB4201, SKU: BB4201
06.19.2011
5 Stars
| Anything to avoid having to take off the cowling as putting it back on is not fun at all. Changing the oil could not be any easier with this wrench. Well worth the $$. |
ITEM: PG03659
03.27.2011
3 Stars
| I bought the trunk and the saddlebag moldings. Looks great and install was not difficult. Trunk was easier since there is no drilling and electrical is plug and play. Splice clips that came with the saddlebag moldings did not pierce the wire insulation on their own so I needed to help that along by cutting into the insulation a bit – not a big deal. Although I would probably buy again because I like the look, the quality should be much better. For starters, moldings are made of cheap plastic which will scratch / break easily if you’re not careful. Saddle bag door moldings do not lay flush with the door – no one will notice but me, I’m sure. No grommets are provided for the holes that you need to drill so water could become an issue – I used some silicone around the holes as a precaution. I’ve been buying Kuryakyn products for years and I’m a fan due to the wide selection and quality of their products but in this case, quality is just not there for the money. |
Front Fairing Trim for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU7322, SKU: KU7322
03.20.2011
5 Stars
| I never intended to buy this until I saw on another Wing recently. Dresses up the front a bit and looks like it belongs. |
Gen 2 Chrome Fork Brace for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU7339, SKU: KU7339
03.20.2011
5 Stars
| This is a nice looking piece of chrome. Honestly was not expecting much of a change in the ride but was pleasantly surprised. Handling is improved in the turns and in slow maneuvers. Very easy install, took about 30 minutes and that includes cleaning the wheels while the fender was off. |
Ergo II Highway Peg w/Mini Arms
ITEM CODE: KU4073, SKU: KU4073
10.04.2010
5 Stars
| These look really nice on the bike. I still cannot get comfortable using them for too long though. Think it's just something to get used to as I am used to riding a cruiser where I can stretch out more. Despite this I do recommend them as having an alternate position for the feet helps on longer rides BTW I'm 6' 4" |
Luggage Rack Risers for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU7154, SKU: KU7154
10.03.2010
5 Stars
| Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers. 1. Disconnected the battery again 2. Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack 3. Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit. 4. Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas. 5. While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape. 6. Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen. 7. Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then with a ¼” bit per instructions. Approximated the angles as suggested but am su |
Kuryakyn Chrome Luggage Rack w/Rubber Inlay for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU7151, SKU: KU7151
10.03.2010
5 Stars
| Nice look. A bit high with the risers but will be easier to clean Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1.Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2.Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3.Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4.Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5.Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6.Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7.Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8.Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9.Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10.Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11.Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12.Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13.Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers. 1.Disconnected the battery again 2.Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack 3.Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit. 4.Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas. 5.While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape. 6.Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen. 7.Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then wi |
Factory OEM LED Lighted Trunk Spoiler for GL1800 1st Gen
ITEM CODE: PG00029
10.03.2010
5 Stars
| Beutiful piece. Perfect color match (of course) Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers - I'll have more details on my review of the Kuty Rack and Risers Hope this is helpful. Remember to wait for a rainy day and take your time. Ride safe. |
LED Trunk Spoiler Running Light Converter
ITEM CODE: BB52734, SKU: BB52734
10.03.2010
5 Stars
| Works as advertised Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1.Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2.Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3.Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4.Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5.Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6.Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7.Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8.Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9.Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10.Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11.Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12.Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13.Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers - I'll have more details on my review of the Kuty Rack and Risers Hope this is helpful. Remember to wait for a rainy day and take your time. Ride safe. |
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