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| Here's the deal with these things. If you have the Kury brake pedal, you're going to need these replacement pads at some point. Kury doesn't glue them in very well in the mass production process, but at least they have the foresight to offer readily available replacements. I lost the outer rubber and bought a set. When I replaced the missing one, I dug out the others and re-glued with Super Glue Gel instead of the glue Kury provides in the kit. So, you either re-glue them now, or replace them later. No biggie. It's an easy job. Giving 4 stars just because they're needed in the first place. |
| super product easy to install , about 1 hour |
| Easy install and removal. Really protects the nose of the bike on those big rides. |
| Remove the highway pegs and on they go - easy. Adds that final touch of chrome to the bottom end of the bike. |
| Easiest install, don't know why I waited so long to get this. great for long hauls. Looks great too. |
| It adds a lot of visibility with the light and it looks great. It was very easy to install. |
| Forgot to tell you. Go to NAPA auto parts and purchase the smallest nylon reinforced black gas line they sell and some silicone lubricant spray (make sure you get the spray with the little red straw that you attach into the spray nozzel). Before you install the rack, you can use the above to beef-up your trunk gasket which will allow your lid to take the extra weight. Spray the lubricant into the gasket and push the gas line through snaking it around to the fron of the lid. Note: you will do this in two pieces. Do the same to the other side (you will see what I am talking about when you open the lid and look around). The gas line will allow you to spray additional lubricant as needed as you insert and push the line through. You won't believe the difference and will get rid of the rattling. Also, no more rubbing and wearing off the paint where the trunk lid meets the trunk. |
| Nice rack. Be wide awake when drilling holes. Buy the risers - better fit. Also, I bought and used rubber and metal washers that were about as big a a quarter for under the lid, and used a drill bit that was bigger than what is suggested. This allowed me to move the rack around a bit to get it in the perfect postition before tightening. With the risers, the forward fasteners need to be installed with the inside of the trunk removed. The rear fasteners are installed after re-installing the inside of the trunk (before re-installing the inside of the trunk, make sure that you use the peel-and-stick rubber washers that are supplied as a spacer between the inside of the trunk and the lid for the rear fasteners). Instuctions aren't clear. Lastly, screw the fasteners into and out of the rack a few times to get the chrome out of the screw holes before you even begin. Be patient and not in a hurry - looks good. Scored a 4 because instructions with risers weren't clear. |
| Serves no purpose other than adding some accent to the rear of the bike which is exactly what I wanted. |
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fairly simple install and works well with the cb and looks good. The set screw on the uppe lock for the upper part of the antenna striped out first time I tried to tighten it.... if I have to replace it any time I'll go with the OEM... |
| I took my time installing this additon to my 06 wing, did it in 2 nights. It was a pretty straight forward and fairly simple job. It worked the first time I tried it, almost a first for a non wrench like me. |
| Like the previous reviewer, I ordered this outlet and installed it in the left hand dash compartment. I will only use this outlet for my cell phone charger and other low amperage items. The OEM wiring this item plugs into only has a 5-amps circuit. However, I also order Item #EC02205 and installed it in the left Saddle Bag where my tools and air compressor are. Item #EC02205 has a 15-amp capability and, when wired directly to the battery with a 15-amp in-line fuse, it will support the any and all of the heavier amperage items. |