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Ron
Lakeland, FL, US, 33810
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Alias:
Ron
About:
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Occupation:
RV Technician
Favorite Quote:
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Member Since:
12.27.2011
Bike 1:
Metallic Black 2010 Honda Goldwing
Bike 2:
- No Bike 2 -
Bike 3:
- No Bike 3 -
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ITEM: PG03659
06.23.2013
Beautiful
| These look incredible. Install was easy, just don't overtighten. |
GL1800 Honda Fog Lights w/ or w/o AIR BAG
ITEM CODE: PG00065
06.23.2013
Easy Install
| Love these! They do a great job of making my bike more noticeable to other drivers and adding some light out front. I primarily bought them to be seen by cars. |
Passenger Drink Holder
ITEM CODE: KU1481, SKU: KU1481
06.23.2013
Needs Improvement
|
This is a beautiful drink holder and for that reason I am glad I bought it. Shame on Kuryakyn for selling such an expensive Drink Holder with a bracket that is clearly too short. The Kury design has it resting on top of the right saddlebag when installed in the preferred rear handle position because their bracket is too short. Wouldn't take long for the finish to be affected there. I modified mine and added a 5/8" extender to the bracket so it sits up above it. |
ISO-Grips for use w/OEM Heated Grips for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU6183, SKU: KU6183
06.23.2013
Wow
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Love these grips. They add a nice look, but more importantly so comfortable. Can't recommend them enough. Haven't used the heated grips with them yet, but you have to expect their to be less heat. It is just the nature of the beast and a small sacrifice to get this level of comfort. |
ITEM: TR771173
06.23.2013
Very nice
| Installed this with the front springs first and then the Monotube cartridges. If I had my choice I would want it slightly softer for solo riding, but it is perfect for 2-up at 375 pounds. With that in mind it is a huge improvement over the stock one and I would highly recommend it. |
Progressive Heavy Duty Fork Springs for GL1800
ITEM CODE: TR771521, SKU: TR771521
06.23.2013
Very nice
|
This were a great improvement over the stock suspension. I also changed to the rear Progressive Shock Spring. I have since installed the Progressive Monotube Cartridges and that is a considerable improvement over these. |
All Balls Steering Bearings for GL1800 & F6B
ITEM CODE: TR416233, SKU: TR416233
06.23.2013
A Must have.
|
The 30-40 mph wobble is gone. When you see the stock bearings you will know why it wobbled. Too small and cheap. Torqued my bearings to 20 ft lbs. Steered it some and then backed it off. Retorqued to 17 ft pounds and it is perfect. A lot of different opinions on the torque settings, but my steering was too tight when I went higher. It should also be kept in mind that most of our torques wrenches probably differ a bit and most people have never had their wrench re-calibrated after purchasing it. |
Progressive Monotube Fork Cartridge Kit for GL1800
ITEM CODE: TR779004, SKU: TR779004
06.23.2013
Smooth ride
|
Installed the Progressive rear spring and the Progressive front fork springs 600 miles ago and it was a wonderful improvement over stock. Wanted to try the Monotube Cartridges so now I can confirm that when both parts are new the Monotubes are definitely smoother. Alot of talk about the Cartridges raising the bike from the Progressive springs, but those must of been older springs that sagged some. My bike did raise in the front when I did the fork springs, but it is the identical height now with the Monotubes. The bike does lean over a bit more on the kickstand and it is okay, but I have a 1/2" plate that I am going to cut and weld onto the bottom of another kickstand I purchased from a trike take-off on ebay. I am 6'0" tall with a 34" inseam and weigh 230 pounds and I ran no spacers in the cartridges. Very happy with how smooth the front end is. In my opinion the bike now handles and rides perfect with my wife on giving us about a 375 pound load. I would prefer the back shock to be slightly softer when I ride solo, but it is way better than the way too soft stock rear spring. |
All Balls Steering Bearings for GL1800 & F6B
ITEM CODE: TR416233, SKU: TR416233
01.20.2013
Must Have
|
Just installed these on my 2010. When you remove the stock bearings, you will see why you have a 40 mph wobble. Very small and cheap. These are much heavier/bigger and stronger. Recommended. |
OEM Factory Fork Seal/Bushing Kit for 2001-2005 GL1800
ITEM CODE: HOGL18FRK0105, SKU: HOGL18FRK0105
01.20.2013
Convenient
| Just did my 2010. It was nice and easy to just order one part and have everything needed except fork oil to do the rebuild. |
Trunk Key Hole Trim Accent for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU3219, SKU: KU3219
01.20.2013
Sharp!
| Very nice look on the back. |
Handlebar Riser Shims
ITEM CODE: BB52698, SKU: BB52698
05.24.2012
Nice improvement.
|
These worked good for me and will take only about 30 minutes to install with proper instructions. I am 6'0" tall with wide shoulders and long arms. The stock handlebar position caused my shoulders to slouch since they were so low. I just wanted to raise my bars so the other more expensive options out there didn't appeal to me. Many of them move the bars closer to each other. This modification requires no changes to the wires or cables since the shim is only about 1/4" thick. It is thicker on one end than the other so it angles the bars to a 1 1/2" higher position. The instructions that come with the risers are bad, but hopefully these tips will make this job a breeze as it was for me. The instructions mention a 5mm allen wrench and a black push pin, but my 2010 Goldwing did not have these. - To remove the speaker cover/dash panel, two speaker tweeter wires, and the wire plug next to the ignition switch read this thread. You will have that done in a couple of minutes after reading or watching this. https://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?196034-06-10-Dash-Removal-(non-air-bag)&highlight=speaker+removal That thread does a good job of describing and showing video of how and where to lift up on the plastic cover to the left of the ignition key as the dash/speaker cover just snaps into place. It also shows you the best way to disconnect the three wire plugs. - Next you just need to remove four bolts with an 8mm socket that hold the gauge assembly on so you can lift this slightly out of the way for access underneath. - Next remove the two screws with a stubby phillips screwdriver that hold the handlebar bolt cover on. These two screws will be replaced with the included longer screws and white plastic spacers. - Next a 14mm socket to remove the two handlebar bolts out. Do one side at a time. - Install the riser shims with the narrow side towards the front and bolt place the 14mm bolts back in to hold the handlebars. - Install the other side riser shim. - Place the handlebar cover back in with the two new screws and plastic spacers placed under the cover. I mixed a little 5 minute epoxy and glued the spacers to the bottom of the cover on mine just so that they don't fall out now or in the future in case I ever remove the cover again. - Plug in your three wires and snap the front speaker/dash cover back into place and you are done. |
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