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Honda Goldwing Motorcycle

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Upland, CA, US, 91784




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Bike 1:

Black 2006 Honda GL1800

Bike 2:

Merlot/Cherry Sunglo 2010 Harley-Davidson Street Glide

Bike 3:

Red 2001 Honda XR650L

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Latest product reviews View All

Grip End Weights
ITEM CODE: KU6238,   SKU: KU6238

See my KU6183 review for this product.
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Grip Countoured ISO Throttle Boss

See my KU6183 review for this product.
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ISO-Grips for use w/OEM Heated Grips for GL1800
ITEM CODE: KU6183,   SKU: KU6183

I bought the KU6183 grips, KU6310 throttle boss, KU6238 end weights with the KU6226 black accent ring and the KU7436 chrome levers back in May. The look is fantastic. I was worried about all the extra chrome but it was just the right amount to enhance the bars. I greased the new levers per others recommendations and have had no issues with the cruise control not engaging. The chrome has been flawless on all the parts and have not had any peeling issues as some others have noted.

Installation of the grips is a chore. I used a smooth-rounded shim to help set the rubber inserts into the chrome cover slots which seems to be the easiest and safest approach. Using Windex to slide the rubber inner covers over the existing grips is another good tip. I have a very slight gap where the chrome halves meet and cannot seem to get them to close completely no matter how I align the rubber inners.
I think the look of the matching throttle boss is perfect. I am still not use to this contraption and at times find myself slightly engaging the throttle at stops. Another issue is that in the city, I tend to force my right hand inwards to not lean on the boss. This gives me a grip imbalance since my left hand stays outboard at the bar end. Just feels strange to my standard riding position. Another issue is that given the boss mounting slots and where they line up to the grip mount, I either have the boss to high or too low to accommodate the slots. You cannot rotate the grip due to the heater wiring, so for me, I cannot get the alignment on the boss that I like.

I have medium-large hands. The grips seem a little too big for me. I truly love the look so I just deal with it, but will say that sometimes I just don’t feel comfortable with the lack of being able to “clinch” the grips, especially over rough roads.

One last note that may ultimately have me remove them. As others have commented, you lose most of the heat transfer. I crank them on full and after 15 minutes, I may have 25% of the heat I once had. I got stuck in a freezing weather with rain, hail and snow in Tonopah, NV (on Memorial Day of all times) wearing only medium gloves and my hands were freezing (no, I didn't have winter gear in Spring). I am planning an Alaska trip and the lack of heat and grip size issue won’t be acceptable for that ride.

A post script. I tried removing the left grip and found that the end weight mounting screw that connects to a compression nut inside the bar, was spinning and would not catch in order to remove it. I installed the screw with blue Loctite, since the previous stock screw had fallen out before. Given that, I was unable to remove the grip. Consider not using Loctite during your install just in case you decide to revert to stock.
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K&N High Flow Lifetime Air Filter for GL1800, F6B

This is my 3rd GL (1st 1800) and I currently own 2 other bikes. I consider myself an adequate mechanic and don’t shy away from most challenges. I own a factory shop manual as well and hence my deciding to install this filter. If you can do this in 4 hours as some have proclaimed, then hats off to you. My recommendation, have the dealer do it on the next full service. Here’s why: First off, plan on 6 hours at least and plan on doing the project the same day unless you have a superior memory. In addition, take some digital pictures of the wire routing around the ECM and ABS. This is going to be a problem later if you don’t. Yes, I lay parts and screws out in an array to reinstall later and even number screws where there is a large successive order to install. I have a fully loaded GL (sans airbag) and there are a number of additional components to remove/disconnect. Another thing, there is a myriad of tabs, grommets, pins, fasteners in addition to the unending number of electrical connections. If you are not familiar when to push, pull, pry or hit it with a larger hammer, you are going to be frustrated. There is nothing in the factory manual that descriptively tells you how to disconnect the myriad of parts. This is why it takes 3 hours alone to get to the air filter. On my GL, I could not get the ECM fully out as I could not determine how to disconnect what I believe was the cruise control cable. Issue number 2. Honda, rightfully so, built the top of the air box to maintain the mounting screws in the lid. Great design so you don’t lose one in the bowels of the beast. Horrible issue when installing the filter. Here’s my complaint on the K&N design. A stock filter is hard plastic and has a seal ridge top and bottom. It stays completely seated as it’s milled specific to the air box. The K&N is rubber and only has a bottom ridge seal. You have to manually push the bottom ridge in the air box to seat it correctly. The fun starts when you try and replace the top air box cover and those fixed screws catch the filter and then unseat it from the bottom air box. Being a rubber filter, it doesn’t stay fixed in the bottom air box guide and you get nervous that it’s not seated correctly prior to mounting the top. Yes, I thought of using tape to hold the screws up but worried that it would compromise the overall seal of the top. Typical Honda, and I say this out of experience, it’s easy to strip the air box screws even without over tightening. Mine stripped on the extracting not installation. A common experience on some Honda factory parts.

So the reinstall is just as fun. If evolution hasn’t gifted you with a 3rd arm, call a friend. The Top Shelter is much simpler with a holder and another to push connectors together. Remember the part about knowing how all the ECM and ABS wire cables went. This is when you find out you didn’t route them the same way. The top shelter will never lay flat if the wiring is not routed correctly.

Not sure I would tackle this again just to get this filter installed. I own K&N filters in all my vehicles but this one does not seem the best thought out given how you need to ensure it is seated correctly in a space you can’t see into well.

And unless you were gifted with small hands, everything is a challenge to perform the various disconnecting/connecting on. Again, I am a fairly competent mechanic performing some pretty major projects. These full fairing bikes and complex systems and space management just don’t lend to easy installations this deep inside the beast. Good luck all. Hope this helps.
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Kuryakyn Chrome Floorboards w/Heel Shifter
ITEM CODE: KU4038,   SKU: KU4038

Typical Kuryakan high quality chrome and what I feel is a well-designed system. Very simple install. Definitely make sure you tape the shifter side chrome (per instructions) during install as it is simple to scratch when installing. I would recommend electrical tape as the blue masking got chewed-up quickly and I failed to see it. One other note, and duh on me, make sure the side stand is down when installing or you will trap it behind the floorboard. I bought the shift extender and large brake pedal as well (but did not open) but am returning as I find the current layout perfect. I am 6’3”, shoe size 11 with a 32” inseam. I find the current shift mechanism already spacious enough if not too far back for upshifting given how I center my foot more forward. The supplied brake pedal also seems ideal and not roomy enough to house the larger brake pedal and get onto it quickly. To each his own I’m sure. Sorry I waited so long to install as this has greatly added to my comfort.
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