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| Excellent and economical replacement for scrtched OEM. |
| When I bought my bike it had some ugly Baker Wing deflectors attached with holes drilled through the OEM moldings. Excellent and economical replacement. Easy to install and look sharp. |
| Already had the footpegs and chrome bracket. Did help some on the leg length position so you're not quite as cramped. Highway pegs are better for that. I bought these before the highway pegs and probably would have passed on these if I bought the highway pegs first. |
| The instructions did not specify with a drawing or description just where this should be mounted. Based on our desire to hide the wire without drilling, we mounted the lights aiming down instead of up. In the long run, we were happy to discover that when they aim down, the chrome below it mirrors the lights and they appear as if there were two strips instead of one! Knocked off a star for ambiguaous instructions, but really like the look and safety aspects (they flash with the turn signal!). |
| Here's the deal with these things. If you have the Kury brake pedal, you're going to need these replacement pads at some point. Kury doesn't glue them in very well in the mass production process, but at least they have the foresight to offer readily available replacements. I lost the outer rubber and bought a set. When I replaced the missing one, I dug out the others and re-glued with Super Glue Gel instead of the glue Kury provides in the kit. So, you either re-glue them now, or replace them later. No biggie. It's an easy job. Giving 4 stars just because they're needed in the first place. |
| super product easy to install , about 1 hour |
| Easy install and removal. Really protects the nose of the bike on those big rides. |
| Remove the highway pegs and on they go - easy. Adds that final touch of chrome to the bottom end of the bike. |
| Easiest install, don't know why I waited so long to get this. great for long hauls. Looks great too. |
| It adds a lot of visibility with the light and it looks great. It was very easy to install. |
| Forgot to tell you. Go to NAPA auto parts and purchase the smallest nylon reinforced black gas line they sell and some silicone lubricant spray (make sure you get the spray with the little red straw that you attach into the spray nozzel). Before you install the rack, you can use the above to beef-up your trunk gasket which will allow your lid to take the extra weight. Spray the lubricant into the gasket and push the gas line through snaking it around to the fron of the lid. Note: you will do this in two pieces. Do the same to the other side (you will see what I am talking about when you open the lid and look around). The gas line will allow you to spray additional lubricant as needed as you insert and push the line through. You won't believe the difference and will get rid of the rattling. Also, no more rubbing and wearing off the paint where the trunk lid meets the trunk. |
| Nice rack. Be wide awake when drilling holes. Buy the risers - better fit. Also, I bought and used rubber and metal washers that were about as big a a quarter for under the lid, and used a drill bit that was bigger than what is suggested. This allowed me to move the rack around a bit to get it in the perfect postition before tightening. With the risers, the forward fasteners need to be installed with the inside of the trunk removed. The rear fasteners are installed after re-installing the inside of the trunk (before re-installing the inside of the trunk, make sure that you use the peel-and-stick rubber washers that are supplied as a spacer between the inside of the trunk and the lid for the rear fasteners). Instuctions aren't clear. Lastly, screw the fasteners into and out of the rack a few times to get the chrome out of the screw holes before you even begin. Be patient and not in a hurry - looks good. Scored a 4 because instructions with risers weren't clear. |