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| Got it on just in time for a 450 mile round trip to the mountains in Ark. Must say it performed very well. Relatively easy to assemble. Instructions were straight forward. Was a little nervous about cutting a hole in the fender but after everything was put back together it looked very professional. Take your time bolting it on, and cutting out the hole. It held up very well and held a lot more than i thought it would. it is larger than you think but not so much that it looks awkward on the back of the bike. Actually it looks pretty good back there. Easy to take down. Will be using this from now on for trips. Glad i got this instead of trailer hitch and trailer. |
| Great cup holder, very easy to install. the only drawback is if you have paper container the "fingers" of the holder compress the cup and the lid pops off while going down the highway. Not very good at 70 mph. But all other containers work very well with this. The wife really likes it. |
| These look really nice on the bike. I still cannot get comfortable using them for too long though. Think it's just something to get used to as I am used to riding a cruiser where I can stretch out more. Despite this I do recommend them as having an alternate position for the feet helps on longer rides BTW I'm 6' 4" |
| Excellent addition. Stopped all chafing. Bumpers are difficult to seat, but they are very solid after installation. Always use a center punch (spring loaded is recommended) before drilling any holes in your bike. |
| Easy to install. Looks Great. If I was going to put only one piece of chrome on my bike, this would be it. |
| The lights were easy to install. They add a lot of light to the right and left side, but not much to the front. The dim light on the older bikes are not good anyway. (91 Aspencade) Looking for something that will help with the lights while on dim. They look great. |
| Put these on my trike without a problem. After less than a month the clutch side came loose even though I had used some electric tape to thicken the bar. I reinstalled it using hairspray and another layer of tape and it seems better. Looks great. I have the balance weights and palm throttle extension. |
| I installed this item on my trike yesterday and it took way longer then Kuryakyn estimates. The problem was the two sided tape is not already attached to the extension. Also the instructions make no mention of having to install the side rubber spacers between the fender and extender where it gets bolded on. I had already attached the extension with the tape and then had to squirm around putting the rubber spacers onto the extender. But it looks great. Will see how well it works later this week. |
| Wow, this bike cover is extremely durable. I ride my 1999 SE Goldwing everyday to work. This cover takes alot of abuse from the weather in Florida. I am extemely pleased with this product. The wear and tear is very minimum. I still rate this product a 5 compared to the other bike covers I have used... |
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Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers. 1. Disconnected the battery again 2. Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack 3. Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit. 4. Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas. 5. While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape. 6. Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen. 7. Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then with a ¼” bit per instructions. Approximated the angles as suggested but am su |
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Nice look. A bit high with the risers but will be easier to clean Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1.Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2.Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3.Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4.Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5.Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6.Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7.Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8.Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9.Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10.Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11.Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12.Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13.Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers. 1.Disconnected the battery again 2.Used two sided tape (not the foam kind, just thin, adhesive) to attach the risers to the luggage rack 3.Used two sided tape (same kind) to attach the large rubber washers to the bottom of the risers. This prevents scratches while I figured out where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit. 4.Tested approximately where I wanted the Luggage Rack to sit, took it off and placed masking tape in those areas. 5.While holding the Luggage Rack in place, I traced a circle around the base of the Risers on top of the masking tape. 6.Using a large rubber washer that came with the Luggage Rack (which won’t be used), I put this in the center of the traced circles and marked the centers with a pen. 7.Drilled the holes using a smaller bit first and then wi |
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Beutiful piece. Perfect color match (of course) Rainy days are made for projects like this. I didn’t time myself but the install was much easier than I expected. This review is actually being written for a couple of things that were on a short list of items which I wanted to install first (OEM Spoiler, Luggage Rack & risers). Tips that I learned here were very useful – thank you ! I put on the spoiler first with the Show Chrome Running Light Converter. Did this to ensure the Luggage Rack would not interfere with the Spoiler. The template that came with the OEM Spoiler made it a breeze to install and yes, like everyone else, I was a bit nervous using a drill on the bike. By the end of the day I had drilled 9 holes in the trunk, 5 for the Spoiler and 4 for the Luggage Rack. Only hitch was dropping one of the screws from the inner trunk liner into the bike somewhere despite laying a rag over the frame to prevent just that from happening. Hopefully it falls out the next time I use the bike but with 15 screws, I doubt that 1 missing screw will make much of a difference. Back on topic . . OEM Spoiler 1. Disconnected the negative connection on the battery 2. Removed the seat (needed to do this for the running light converter). Remove the grab rails. When taking off the seat, start in the back. The bottom of the rear back rest pulls out and then work the seat off, starting in the back (owner manual doesn’t give instructions for this so I thought it would be helpful). If you have the comfort package, don’t forget to unplug the wire harness from the seat. 3. Put a blanket or something over the frame (keeps stuff from dropping into the bike, the rag I used was too small as mentioned above). 4. Took out the trunk liner. Directions don’t say anything about unplugging the module screwed into the trunk liner. Not a big deal but annoying. Press in the tab and pull out the white part. 5. Marked my holes using the template (taped it lightly so it would not slip; flipped the template and repeated for the 2 holes on the right side. 6. Drilled the holes per instructions. Chipped some paint while drilling but the spoiler covered those imperfections nicely. 7. Used a small amount of silicone spray and a small screwdriver to push in the rubber grommet where the wires come out of the spoiler 8. Removed the cover that sits between the saddle bags. 9. Had my 12 year run the running light converter wire with the 3 prongs down the outside of the trunk (he likes to help) and used fish wire to pull it through 10. Plugged in the 3 prong connecter below the bike 11. Plugged in the 2 prong connector in the trunk 12. Used cable ties and some electrical tape in spots to keep the wires neat. Harness is long enough, Make sure it does not pinch anywhere. I ran by the bottom left most screw where there is a small gap between the liner and truck lid.. 13. Plugged the battery in temporarily to test the rear lights. I’m very happy with the running & brake light. Since I finished at night, I could really appreciate how bright these were – looks great. Luggage Rack and Risers - I'll have more details on my review of the Kuty Rack and Risers Hope this is helpful. Remember to wait for a rainy day and take your time. Ride safe. |