Contact Us
|
I have been running DynaBeads on all my bikes for about 5 years (change my own tires with a NO-Mar) and am a big believer in dynamic balancing and the benefits it brings. I installed the Centramatic wheel balancers about 750 miles ago and from the very first mile I was stunned by the how smooth it was. I am often let down by the hype of most products so I was very pleased to find one that exceeded my expectations! DynaBeads are great and the Centramatic system is noticeably better. I also appreciate not having to mess with the beads any more on my Goldwing. Now if we could only get Centramatic to release versions for all our bikes. |
| I purchased the rear tire and I have put about 3,000 miles on this tire. I like it much better than the dunlop Elite tires. Would recommend this tire. |
| Installed these on a 2006 Goldwing, I took a 3,000 mile trip to the smokey mountains and these shocks made a huge difference in the bike and the way it handled. It was much smoother and I did not feel so much of the road vibration in the handle bars. I would highly recommend this upgrade over the stock OEM shocks. |
| I had them installed in about 45 minutes. They look great and add additional lights to the side of the bike. The sequential light is eye catching. |
| After calling Glass Act (manufacturer of Butler Mug) I found that their Python mount will work with the Heli Bars. I mounted the Python bracket today. |
| THIS IS THE BEST TIRE FOR THE FRONT OF YOUR BIKE OR TRIKE. WAS VERY IMPRESSED AND WOULD NOT BUY ANY OTHER TIRE. I DID TURN IT BACKWARDS. |
| As other reviewers have suggested, I opted not to use the adhesive. The bolts and the tight fit under the painted portion keep the frame covers plenty snug. This is an extremely easy installation. There is nothing to it. The covers enhance the overall appearance, especially with other bling in that region. You won’t be disappointed. |
| I ordered a set of these lights on 08/30/16 and received them on 09/02/16 and one has quit working by 09/10/16. The light are bright and look good but to have one go bad that quick is not good. I would like to have these light working and I don't want to go back to the old style bulbs but they are $$$ |
|
1. Put both deploy hooks on first if you want them. 2. Brake side deploy hook-could only get one bolt in . Holes did not line up. 3. Deploy hooks are not needed. 4. Black plastic shift knob adapter is in with brake pedal. Go figure. 5. Put chrome knob for toe shifter on before installing floorboard. Had one heck of a time getting screw in because of all the thread lock on it. Had to work lock-tite off the threads to make it go on. Also, had to pick brown stuff out of knob hole to get screw in far enough to seat tightly. Pain in the rump. Just ship a dang tube of Blue lock-tite with the kit. 6. Electrical tape layered on top of shift lever is a terrific idea. Do not skip this step. 7. Good tip. Put screws through mounting holes of floorboard holes by rocking the shift knob before mounting to bike. 8. Careful with kickstand with the floorboard down. It will contact and mark the chrome of the floorboard if completely locked in the up position. Careful. 9. Brake pedal will work perfect if done as instructions state. Line up mark would be at the 9 o’clock position on the spline. The floorboards look great but for the money the stuff should just be plug and play (not plug and pain). Some of these notes should be added to the installation instructions. |
| I have had my Butler cup since I purchased it at the 1999 Honda Hoot in Ashville, NC. It was installed by the Butler Cup rep. on the spot. I totaled my bike two years later, the lid cracked and I replaced it with a new one. The cup still functions just the same as when purchased so many years ago. I have recommended to many people through the years. Keep up the good work. |
|
I have a 2010 Honda GoldWing GL1800 - Audio/Comfort - Base Model. I have 60,500 miles on the bike. I replaced the old factory springs with (I believe the 1st Gen) Mono tubes on 04/02/13 with 37,592 miles on the clock. I have rebuilt the forks once, since the replacement of the mono tubes, only due to my negligence of messing up the left side seal when I installed the mono tubes. I left the messed up seal in the fork tube and the seal lasted for 2 years. The rebuild was at 02/15/15 with 50,720 miles. 
       My problem is that I have excessive bouncing on any road surface specifically on smooth roads. As far as I can tell, the forks are not compressing when hitting the smaller bumps causing the excessive bounce. Larger bumps, the forks are compressing or absorbing the bump like they are supposed to. This bouncing has started in the last 3 weeks. Prior to this problem, the mono tubes worked perfectly fine. 

Speeds when noticeable: 30-45mph, does not matter if I am the only rider or 2 up. 

What I have done to try to diagnose the problem.
 1. Lower tire pressure to 38 in the front and 42 in the rear. 
2. Loosen up the fork caps to release air in tubes. 
3. Disable Anti Dive Valve. 
4. Adjust rear shock preload from 0-25. I rode the bike on every setting and the bounce is still there.

 A little more info.
1. My weight is 170 lbs with my riding gear; full face helmet, summer jacket with body armor, gloves and textile riding pants over jeans.
2. I used one shim on each tube, I prefer a stiffer ride.
3. I used Honda Fork Oil SS8 10w and replaced all the bushings seals and dust covers both times. 
4. Added the necessary quantity per instructions for each fork leg.
5. Front Tire is 2 years and 2 months old with 14,987 miles, tread depth 3/32â€â€¨6. Rear Tire is 3 years and 5 months old with 28,375 miles, tread depth 3/32â€An update on my 2010 Honda Goldwing GL1800 with Audio and Comfort (Base Model), I finally had time to replace the front and rear tires with Dunlop Elite 3’s, the steering head bearings with All Balls, and wheel bearings and seals with Honda OEM. My test ride home was about 36 miles from the shop I had the repair done at. My second test ride was to a work meeting approximately 38 miles. This gave me more time in the saddle to realize that the problem was still there. The bounce can be described as a springy type bouncing. On 05/20/16, after my meeting and on my way home, I decided to go ahead and disassemble the front forks and inspect the Progressive Mono Tubes (PMT) and rebuild them by replacing the PMT’s, oil, seals, and bushings. Three hours later, I had the all the parts in hand and started disassembling the right fork. Once the right fork was disassembled, I inspected the PMT and noticed nothing out of the ordinary. I tried compressing the spring by pushing down from above (standing position with the bottom of the tube on the floor and the mono tube and spring closest to my hand) and found it very difficult. I did this with the one shim installed and removed. The Honda SS8 fluid was still red and the bushings looked like they were still new. No metal shavings or plastic chunks when I drained the fluid. The left PMT, with the anti dive valve, I found the spring to be bulging to one side with or without the shim. I also noticed that at the end of the mono tube (gas side), the plastic spacer was misaligned and it looked like the larger spacer is missing. Again, trying to compress it from above, it was very hard to compress with the shim installed and removed. The Honda SS8 fluid was still red and the bushings looked like they were still new. No metal shavings or plastic chunks when I drained the fluid. Now comparing my old PMT’s to the new ones, I noticed that the spring thickness was a lot thinner |
| After just 2 seasons I had to replace the left side. Very DIsappointed. |