Let’s face it. In the past we all just tapped into the lights on our bikes. And it was not a problem. However, the number of computer module controlled lighting and electronics is on the rise. So why is this a big deal?
These bikes monitor circuits in such a way that most have a minimum and maximum current draw for each circuit. When the circuit does not meet the minimum load, the computer thinks it is not connected or operating correctly. Too much load and the computer thinks that there is a short. In either case, the computer can shut down the circuit as a method of protection. Sometimes you will get a notification on dash. Sometimes not. Depends on your bike and the circuit in question.
Here is the kicker. If you damage the circuit, computer, wiring or it’s associated components, and the dealer can see where a wire is or was tapped, they can void your warranty. And tapped can include some other manufacturers ‘plug & play” wiring if the power is directly pulled from the bikes wiring. And this is happening more often as dealers and vehicle manufacturers attempt to control costs. The cost of one of the 10 control modules on the 2018+ Goldwing runs between $300 to $1000. So how do you avoid damage to the bike’s wiring, modules and your warranty? Isolation.
By using a trailer isolation package, you make the trigger connections (tail, brake and signals) all plug & play. The actual power is taken from the battery and not the bike’s wiring. This is the correct way.
But how do you use the trailer isolator to power all of your accessory lights? With our Lighting Distribution Block. You are only using less than half of your isolators capacity. And since all accessory lighting is basically LED, the amount of load is easily managed. Take the output from your isolator and connect it to the Lighting Distribution Block. Then connect your trailer and your accessory lights to the block.
This Lighting Distribution Block is extreme duty in every sense of the term. 1. Each circuit is capable of a sustained 10 amps with very heavy silver . 2. We doubled up the number of grounds to accommodate all the other circuits. 3. The lower and upper connection points are staggered so that you do not have to remove one to install another. 4. The connection points use a ‘screw-cage clamp’ design. Of the 3 types available, this is not only the most expensive, but the best possible design. As the clamp is tightened, the nickel-plated cage rises, pressing the wire firmly against the busbar, ensuring solid connections every time. And unlike the ‘screw clamp’ design, the wire strands will not be crushed by the screw causing the wires to be severed. 5. The base is fully encapsulated to stop moisture from making contact with the circuit board. 6. Thick walled base with mounting ears. 7. Length – 4″ , width – 2 1/16″, height – 1 3/4″. 8. Included is a splitter for your ground wire. The distribution block has 2 rows for ground, so we include the splitter to cover both inputs.
If your bike already has a trailer isolator, you will not need anything other than the Lighting Distribution Block. If you do not have trailer isolation, please click on the ‘VEHICLES’ tab above to see the plug & play options we have available.
Note; if your trailer is a 4 wire system, you will end up with brake lights on your turn signal functions. Obviously not a good mix. We suggest adding separate turn signals to your trailer as it gives you more visibility.
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