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| These outline the rear speakers and make them respectably noticable. They are perfect match for the chrome that go on the openers over the rear doors. |
| I am 6'1" tall and these are exactly what I have been looking for. They put the foot rests just where they need to be so my feet and legs are not all cramped up after riding long distances. |
| Sorry to all the other guys who had trouble with the directions but I had no problems figuring them out. My only issue was that the lower bolt holes for the front portion of the fender did not line up correctly. I had to run a tap through all the layers to allow the socket head cap screw to start properly. |
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This is a great little device, I installed inline with only the break lights on the trunk. These are the only two that flash and really looks great. I have so many lights installed that are tied to the break system, this unit would not have handled them all. (this is the reason for making the ones on the trunk flash only) Looks good, gets lots of attention. |
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Another do-it-your-self add-on that you DO NOT need to pay the stealership for, as long as you pay attention to the bolts and spacers. Certainly easy enough for even a novice wrench-turner! You will need to remove the lower cowling (And remember which bolts go where as they differ in size/collar length); If you are adding these lights for the first time, (if you do not have cut-outs for the lights already) you will need to remove the "blanks", or "Cut-Outs" in the cowl. To do this, you can use a pair of tin-snips, wire cutters, or shears, to snip the blanks out, but, I do suggest a dremel tool or other accurate sanding device to get those "snip points" or "attachment points" sanded down to surface level; they will be visible after you install the lights, so be careful!! when installing, just pay VERY close attention to the different sized collar placements on both left and right sides. It is truly plug and play - will take you an hour or two depending on your mechanical ability - no sweat at all!! |
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I'm going to give a full break down here, as I was looking for posts myself before buying this, so here it goes: Very high priced, but if you are adding it, you are doing so for a reason. You don't need to pay the stealership to install this as long as you have the time and patience to do it yourself (Expect at least a half of a day, depending on your GL disassembly abilities). Included instructions lack significantly, but just search the web and you will find step-by-step instructions for both radio and antenna installation, many sites and posts cover this from start to finish. Setting the SWR for the antenna is a must....(PLEASE MAKE SURE TO SET YOUR SWR IF YOU WANT A GOOD WORKING RADIO - THIS IS A MUST AND MANY PEOPLE DON'T TALK ABOUT THIS PART - see bottom of post) CB radio and antenna are Plug and play through and through, but take your time, install the filters correctly, and read the multiple web posts/instructions to save you time. This is NOT a quick installation - (especially if you are not patient and have not taken the seat, fairing, & console off before) .... but there are web articles covering all of these, so don't worry, YOU CAN DO IT on your own, even for a guy like me that has only owned one for 2 weeks!! Take the time to route your wiring properly and connect to the correct wiring harnesses. When mounting the antenna (refer to web posting about this subject), it is CRITICAL that you make a good ground for the antenna as the GL does not have a lot of good grounds, and if you want to get any kind of good reception/transmit from your CB radio, you must have a good antenna ground and SWR. Make sure to set/tune your SWR (Standing Wave Ratio), as this is critical to any CB antenna tuning -check the web for "setting SWR" to tune the SWR of the antenna. The SWR tuning makes a HUGE difference on the performance of your radio; there is a reason why you have set-screws on the upper portion of the antenna ...... depending on your set-up, you may even need to trim off 3/4 of an inch or more of the antenna to get an average reading below 1.5, or better. To tune the SWR, you will need the following items, available at most radio-shack stores: 1. SWR meter (most basic models will work fine). 2. Motorola to BNC RF adapter 3. PL259 adapter 4. PL259 male to BNC female 5. 18" RG58 cord with PL259 connections. If all of this confuses you, just explain to your local radio-shack techie that you are trying to tune the SWR of your GL that has car-radio antenna connections using a regular CB SWR meter, and they should know what you need to make it happen..... if they don't, go to another store!! The reason for the above adapters is because normal SWR meters are set up to accept regular CB RG-58/PL259 coax connectors, not the car-type antenna connectors that are used with the HondaLine CB kit (Requiring BNC/Motorola type adapters). One last thing, don't try to set your SWR in front of your metallic garage door, beside cars in your driveway, near big trees or light-posts, as these conditions will adversely affect your SWR reading .... go to an empty parking lot with at least 50 feet between your Wing and the closest object to get a good reading, and make sure it is running when you set the SWR. A decent SWR meter will run you $35-$45 All the adapters will run you about $17-$20 Hope this helps anyone deciding to install one. |
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A must have for those longer trips, especially when your legs and feet are looking for a different position. Installation was easy with the provided concise directions. The only issue I had was making the "roll-Pins" fit into the holes .... had to crimp them a bit, along with doing a little beating to get them seated; outside of that, excellent fit. I am short-legged (29" inseam) and they give me plenty of additional foot positions ..... not sure how they will work once I add some deflectors to the fairing (As my legs bump up against the edge of the fairing depending on certain foot positioning), but will know shortly once the deflectors arrive, and I will update thereafter. I did a 1500 mile ride after installing these pegs and am very glad I had added them - lots of comfort, numerous foot/leg positions added, especially with a back-rest. |
| I put them on in about 10 min. they help block the wind and they are hard to break bucause I hit a deer and went down with out breaking them. |
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A necessary add-on, but make sure you follow the "marked hole" on the outside of the pocket when you start drilling ... if you deviate too much, you will not get the pocket back in correctly. As others have stated, not sure why this miniscule part was omitted from the standard package??? Seems pretty basic when you consider all of the other high-tech gadgets already included!! I also agree with the other comments to use the correct hole-saw or staggered "Christmas-tree" bit - makes install so much easier as it is all metric. |
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Excellent product, depending on your personal measurements. For me, the last position aft is most comfortable, however, with any passenger of adult size, you need to move it up a bit to give them some breathing room, which then may crowd the driver a bit (Again, depending on your dimensions). Nice pocket on the back of the seat for small item storage, unit folds forward to allow passenger unabstructed seat mounting; however, driver has to learn to "hike the leg" over the saddle and "kinda jump into or away from the seated position" during mount and dismount ..... Installation was very simple - as long as you can line-up the seat bolts to go through the back-rest mounting brackets, through the passenger hand-rails, and then into the seat frame mounts .... may take some minor adjusting to get those bolts just perfectly aligned. Adjusting the back-rest position on the three position mount is very simple - just a turn of the knob from locked to unlocked, and you can re-set to any of the three positions. Overall, a 30 min add-on, would have been less if I could get the bolts to line up a little better, but I think that was just me. 100% added comfort - but as noted above, the driver and passenger dimensions do make a difference as to where you will set this back-rest within the 3 provided positions. |
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I added both the trunk and saddle bag mouldings and they look excellent, both day and night. The trunk moulding "running lights" are a bit dimmer than the saddle bag lights, but this is compensated for when you hit the brakes, as the trunk lights are running and brake lights (Saddle bags are just running lights). Wish they would have integrated turn signals into the rear-facing lights of both the trunk and saddle bags .... but, oh well - still nice! Installation was covered well in the directions - took me about an hour and a half. Take your time to remove the correct screws and not over-tighten. Tips I would suggest: Remove the saddle-bag "limit string" and the "hydraulic connection" attachments to gain better access to the moulding screw that is at the rear of the saddle bag lid - if not, you will find yourself struggling for a good grip on a short screw driver to remove the stock moulding and also when replacing the screw on the new moulding. Also note that you will need to firmly push the front "receptor stud" of the new moulding tightly into the saddle bag cover before tightening the screw. Aside from the above, a great affect for the $$. Not very bright during the day, but outstanding at night! |
| Updating my comment and rating. After riding at night, these are terrible. They are not very bright at night. Will be replacing with Autozone H7/55W Sylvania SilverStar bulbs. These Kuryakyn bulbs are over priced. Any retailer will sell a pair for less than Kuryakyn's cost. I assure you that you are better off buying the brand I just bought, unless you don't mind a dim bulb at night. |